Read the figures,
then read what they leave out
Every fabric supplier quotes two numbers and most brands buy on them alone. They are useful, they are measured to real standards, and they describe a rectangle of new fabric in a laboratory — not a jacket with forty seams, a two-way zip and a hood, worn for a season. Here is what they mean and where they stop being helpful.
| Rating | Holds out | Honest use |
|---|---|---|
| 1,500–5,000mm | Light rain, short exposure | Showerproof. Do not call it waterproof. |
| 10,000mm | Steady rain, a few hours | The working floor for a British field jacket |
| 15,000–20,000mm | Sustained rain, pressure from a pack or a sitting position | A full day on a peg or on the hill |
| Above 20,000mm | Everything the weather has | Real, but rarely the limiting factor — spend on taping and the hood instead |
Three routes in,
and only one is the fabric
Every needle makes a hole. A shell is only as waterproof as its taping, and the shoulder seam under a gun or a pack strap is where it shows first. Fully taped is the honest specification for anything sold for a day in the wet; critical taping is a price-point decision that belongs on the spec sheet, not hidden.
Zips, cuffs, hem and hood. A plain zip is a channel for water; it needs a storm flap over it, a water-resistant coating, or both. Cuffs need to seal over or under a glove without a gap. A hood without a decent peak and a rear volume adjuster funnels rain straight down the neck, and no fabric rating saves it.
Genuine fabric failure is unusual on a properly specified garment. What is usually mistaken for it is wet-out: the face fabric saturates, breathability collapses, condensation forms inside, and the wearer concludes the jacket leaks. The membrane is intact. The water-repellent finish has worn off and needs restoring.
Four ways to keep rain out,
and what each one costs you
| Construction | How it works | Trade-off | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Laminated membrane 2L, 2.5L, 3L | A microporous or hydrophilic film bonded to the face fabric | Best performance, highest cost; 3-layer is the most durable and the noisiest | Technical shells, stalking, hill kit |
| Coated fabric PU or acrylic | A waterproof layer applied to the back of the face fabric | Much cheaper; lower breathability and a shorter life | Packable rain shells, over-trousers, entry price points |
| Laminated softshell | Face fabric, membrane and backing bonded into one | Quiet, stretchy and comfortable; usually water-resistant rather than fully waterproof | Shooting coats, mid-season country jackets |
| Waxed cotton | Dense cotton impregnated with a wax or paraffin dressing | Heavy, not breathable, needs reproofing — and sells anyway on look and feel | Traditional countrywear |
Specifications we run
for British weather
| Garment | Typical build | Detail that earns its keep |
|---|---|---|
| Waterproof shooting coat | 15k/15k membrane, fully taped, quiet brushed face | Action back, bellows cartridge pockets, recoil patch, drop-back hem |
| Stalking jacket | 15k–20k membrane, fully taped, peached quiet face | Silent cuff closure, hardware behind flaps, pit zips, sling-clear pockets |
| Country parka | 10k–15k membrane, fully taped, longer body | Roll-away hood, corduroy collar, two-way zip under a storm flap |
| Packable rain shell | Coated or 2.5L membrane, critically or fully taped | Packs into its own pocket; state the taping honestly |
| Over-trousers | 10k–15k, fully taped | Full-length side zips over boots, articulated knee, elasticated back |
| Waterproof smock | 15k–20k, fully taped, no front zip | Fewer failure points, quieter, kangaroo pocket, two-way hood |
Suppliers quote what the mill claims. We check the roll that will actually be cut, and if it does not match we tell you before it becomes 300 jackets. See fabric testing.
Fully or critically taped, the real hydrostatic head, the real breathability figure, and whether the DWR is fluorine-free. Your ticket can then claim exactly that and nothing more.
Put the sample on somebody and stand them outside for two hours. It is the only test that finds a hood that funnels or a cuff that wicks, and it is free.
What buyers should be asking
What do the numbers 10k/10k actually mean?
How waterproof does a jacket actually need to be?
What is the difference between fully taped and critically taped?
Can you make PFAS-free or PFC-free water repellents?
My jacket leaked but the fabric is 20,000mm. Why?
What is your minimum order quantity?
Ready to spec a shell?
Tell us the price point and where it will be worn and we will propose two or three fabrics with real figures, then sample the one you pick within 7–10 working days.